we headed for more challenging ground and started off at the neat and cool wall at Smoke bluffs. We did cat crack [5 star 5.7], corner crack [4 star 5.8], and Flying Circus [10a]. that last climb was the first 5.10 I’ve done in awhile and I’m pretty happy that I got it clean. It was a bit tricky, but it was and awesome feeling to be able to get to thte top and knowing that I onsighted the climb. All I can say is sweet…….we then moved up to the Penny Lane area. There, Steve did Up, Up and Away [5.9]. I just TRed it since i was still fresh off my send and was feeling a little worked. When we got up there we saw jimmy on a climb way to the right of us (I think it wa partners in crime [11a]) and he told us that he was going to put a TR on Crime of the Century [11c]. once we were done with t\our climb….we headed over to said climb and just drooled. Crime of the Century was a beautiful thin crack climb that begged to be climbed and to be challenged. Everybody got a burn on it……I got it clean on TR. Nothing to be proud of but it was still a good feeling. :D I do believe this is going to be the beginning of an awesome trip…
Day 3- Vancouver Airport
We were supposed to get up early to get Daniel and Steph at the airport. But…we had and epic at the coffee shop (the coffee shop was completely unprepared for the morning rush). We were two hours late. I think they were a little bit irked, but since we were late and the city begged us to visit, we proceeded to see some of the little neighborhoods that Vancouver has to offer. We went from the shopping district to the West End to the Univseristy of British Colombia. We had lunch in the West End and hung out at a “clothing optional” benach. It turned out to be a great day in Vancouver. Of course, when we got back that evening, jimmy and Nicky were ready to go out and eat and the vote ended up at the Greek restaurant in town. Good food and good company.
Back in one piece from Vancouver….we headed back to smoke bluffs. Today we did a whole lot of stuff. We got on S-M Delight [10b], Mosquito [5.8], Phlematic something [5.8] down on Mosquito Wall. Then we headed up to Penny Lane and I got on Up, up and away [5.9], Penny Lane [5.9]. I thought I was a good day.
Day 5 – Base of the Grand Wall
After our day at smoke bluffs, I had told susan that I felt like I had to step it up a notch for myself. I wanted to get on some of the ten cracks and was pretty gosh darn eager to hit them up. So we decided that we should go to the Base of the Grand Wall and aim for some of the classics there. We were joined by steve a little bit later. We first got on Arrowroot [10b], as a warm up. I was doing soo well until the end of the crux. I got tired and everything (like my toes and my hands) just hurt. I just I was expecting the route to be shorter and not as sustained. Oh well. One hang. I guess I’ll just have to come back and get it clean. Susan had a go at it and hung in almost the same stop. Steve did the same as well. Sigh….oh well. I guess we all have to come back and get it clean. By then it was already afternoon. I queued up for Exasperator [10c], the classic climb at Squamish. By then it was really hot and the sun was beating down on the back rock and the climb. I was told that I had to do the climb in one long p[itch but I wasn’t sure if I could in the heat. So, I ended up just doing the first pitch clean. And then setting up a TR for both Susan and steve. Next time. Next Time. Hopefully tomorrow will be a better day. :D


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