discovering flickr

since coming back from squish, i've discovered flickr. it's pretty fun. :D it's easy to use. however my mom says that she can't see the photos in China. congrats, censor police. :D

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cragbetty/

Birthday weekend...

charles
Originally uploaded by vypeng

it was good.... :D

we did a lot of eating, drinking, and some climbing. i guess mainly bouldering, cuz we can just chill. :D

on the 10c pitch

on the 10c pitch
Originally uploaded by vypeng

yup.. east buttress of middle cathedral....it was good long day..... :D

Mammoth 09.01.2007

james
Originally uploaded by vypeng

my first hand at trying to take climbing photos. i guess this is an example of my effort.

as ed headed off to the seven gables with dan, i headed down to mammoth for a plush weekend of climbing and good times with a very good crew. :D climbing during the day, good dinners at night, and movies after the hot tub. man, i think i'm getting soft in my old age. :D who knows?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cragbetty/sets/72157601858684164/

The Squamish Adventure....Part Cinq

Day 13- Drizzle…..and Moist

With a day like that and mikey and bryan’s last day here in squish…..what are we do to? We did a moist ascent of Exasperator and then headed for smoke bluffs to get some milage in. basically they just whent a did a whole shit load of little routes. They soloed some, and then they roped up for some. :D then they left. I was really really sad. All of a sudden, I was the only one left at the squish.

Day 14 and 15– Bouldering. With Mike and Rebecca.

After finding somebody to belay me on exaserpator (p2) and getting it clean, I figured it was time for bouldering. :D I had ran into mike and becca from Berkeley the day before and asked if I could join them on their bouldering foray.

Day 16 – heading back home. :D

This time, I didn’t get lost getting to the airport. :D

It was good. I need to come back next year. I need to do more stuff. :D

squamish-part un
http://penguins.smugmug.com/gallery/3357489

squamish-part deux
http://penguins.smugmug.com/gallery/3359314

squamish - part trois
http://penguins.smugmug.com/gallery/3360748

The Squamish Adventure.....Part Quatre

false color of try #3
Originally uploaded by vypeng

Day 9 – The Base of the Chief

The boys wanted to do the grand wall and I wanted to try the second pitch of Exaserator [10c]. so susan and I headed back to the base of the chief. This time we were determined to warm up on something a little more friendly. We went over to seasoned in the sun [10b] and both onsighted the pitch. I’m really really really proud of susan for onsigthing this pitch. I think it’ll totally help her confidence in terms of being able to get above her gear. After both of us took one more lap on the route, we were able to see bryan and mikey getting to the base of the split pillar.

We packed up and head towards exasperator. As we got closer to the the climb, we could see the boys up on the grand wall. Lots of hooting and shouting ensued. Susan tried leading the first pitch of exaserartor, but backed off. I finished that pitch and then brought her up. I hung twice on the second pitch. Suck! I’m definitely coming back to do it cleanly.


Day-10 – Picture day!!

Well, after a big day for the boys and a sort hard day for the gals, motivation was a little low……so, jimmy suggested that we take pictures…..he really wanted more photos. Anyway, we headed out to Upper Malamute for the photo shoot. The gals in pretty sports bras and the boys …..shirtless……susan and I got on high mountain woody [5.9] and was posed for many photos. Bryan and mikey got on some hard thing 11a and 11c [ I think it’s was called science friction]. Man was it fun!. The ended with an awesome cook session….and Talladega nights.

Day 11-----RAIN!!

Well for the amount of time susan and I have been here….this was the first day of actual rain. Everything was wet….the rain came down consistently. What else is there to do? Well, we went to the adventure center to charge my laptop, to get some gifts, and to check out what else to do. After that, we had lunch of some sort. Then we went to watch The Bourne Ultimatum. After the movie, we still had a good amount to day light left…..what shall we ever do? On the recommendation of Steve, we headed up Squamish Valley road. What we found was absolutely jaw-dropping. The views and the land and the country that was back there was amazing. There were waterfalls (long and big ones) fed by the glaciers above. It was absolutely amazing! After that, he hit up the Shady Tree Pub for dinner and evening entertainment of pool and darts. Of course, we came back to camp feeling real good and proceeded to finish watch Talladega nights.


Day 12- Susan leaving……More Rain!

We (all three of us) took susan to the Vancouver airport……of course we proceed to get lost on the way to and the way back. We decided to have lunch in the city and spend some time people watching….it was good. I was really sad to see susan go.

The Squamish Adventure.....Part Trois

same
Originally uploaded by vypeng

Day 6 – Rock On [ 10a, 6 pitches]

Both Susan and I wanted to get off the ground for at least one of the days. So Steve, Susan, and I strike out for Rock On, a 6 pitch, 10a. susan and Matt had done it when they were here last and said the climb was really really good. We each took two pitches. Susan took P1 and P6, Steve took P2 and P#, I took P4 and P5, the two 10a pitches. I made it good by linking the two pitches as oine long pitch and it was soooooo good. The climbing was excellent, but the decent was anything but excellent. We rapped to the wrong ledge and proceeded to get our ropes stuck and the party’s rope behind us stuck. By the time we got all the ropes free, we didn’t have enough time to go cragging or fire up another easy route. The walk off wasn’t trivial either. I think the whole decend process took just as long as the climbing. Sheesh. After we got off the climb, we went to the Howe Sounds Pub for a much needed beer. Eek.

Day 7- Real Rest Day- Whislter.

After the previous day’s ordeal, we needed a real rest day. We decided to go check out Whislter, since we both have heard soo many good things about it. Needless to say, the village stroll is like one big outdoor shopping center and we couldn’t really see the mountain from the end of the stroll. We were quite disappointed.


Day 8- Bouldering

I suck as bouldering. I try and try and try but I don’t seem to get anywhere with that. We warmed up at the black dyke boulder and then proceeded to move on to something hard….easy chair [v4]. It was crowded and we (susan and i) didn’t particularly feel like climbing with lots of people around. It was also hot and motivation was pretty low at this point. We cut out sometime early afternoon and returned to the parking lot of the campground to pick up our stuff. We were going to bang out a couple of routes before dinner time. There we ran into Byran and Mikey. They had finally made it from Vancouver. They had just gotten to our site and wanted to climb. After situating a little bit, susan convinced everybody to go out to smoke bluffs. The heat did not abate there. In fact, it was really really HOT!!. Despite the heat, we got on quarryman [5.8], because nobody else was there. And the boys got on penny lane, partners in crime, and the bryan led bcrime of the century in a valiant effort.

When we returned to the parking lot we said out good byes to steve, steph, and Daniel…..they were driving out that evening. It was definitely a bit sad to see them leave……now it’s up to the boys to entertain us.

The Squamish Adventure.....Part Deux

pacific spirit beach.JPG
Originally uploaded by vypeng

Day 3 – Smoke Bluffs -
we headed for more challenging ground and started off at the neat and cool wall at Smoke bluffs. We did cat crack [5 star 5.7], corner crack [4 star 5.8], and Flying Circus [10a]. that last climb was the first 5.10 I’ve done in awhile and I’m pretty happy that I got it clean. It was a bit tricky, but it was and awesome feeling to be able to get to thte top and knowing that I onsighted the climb. All I can say is sweet…….we then moved up to the Penny Lane area. There, Steve did Up, Up and Away [5.9]. I just TRed it since i was still fresh off my send and was feeling a little worked. When we got up there we saw jimmy on a climb way to the right of us (I think it wa partners in crime [11a]) and he told us that he was going to put a TR on Crime of the Century [11c]. once we were done with t\our climb….we headed over to said climb and just drooled. Crime of the Century was a beautiful thin crack climb that begged to be climbed and to be challenged. Everybody got a burn on it……I got it clean on TR. Nothing to be proud of but it was still a good feeling. :D I do believe this is going to be the beginning of an awesome trip…

Day 3- Vancouver Airport

We were supposed to get up early to get Daniel and Steph at the airport. But…we had and epic at the coffee shop (the coffee shop was completely unprepared for the morning rush). We were two hours late. I think they were a little bit irked, but since we were late and the city begged us to visit, we proceeded to see some of the little neighborhoods that Vancouver has to offer. We went from the shopping district to the West End to the Univseristy of British Colombia. We had lunch in the West End and hung out at a “clothing optional” benach. It turned out to be a great day in Vancouver. Of course, when we got back that evening, jimmy and Nicky were ready to go out and eat and the vote ended up at the Greek restaurant in town. Good food and good company.  

Day 4- smoke bluffs

Back in one piece from Vancouver….we headed back to smoke bluffs. Today we did a whole lot of stuff. We got on S-M Delight [10b], Mosquito [5.8], Phlematic something [5.8] down on Mosquito Wall. Then we headed up to Penny Lane and I got on Up, up and away [5.9], Penny Lane [5.9]. I thought I was a good day.

Day 5 – Base of the Grand Wall

After our day at smoke bluffs, I had told susan that I felt like I had to step it up a notch for myself. I wanted to get on some of the ten cracks and was pretty gosh darn eager to hit them up. So we decided that we should go to the Base of the Grand Wall and aim for some of the classics there. We were joined by steve a little bit later. We first got on Arrowroot [10b], as a warm up. I was doing soo well until the end of the crux. I got tired and everything (like my toes and my hands) just hurt. I just I was expecting the route to be shorter and not as sustained. Oh well. One hang. I guess I’ll just have to come back and get it clean. Susan had a go at it and hung in almost the same stop. Steve did the same as well. Sigh….oh well. I guess we all have to come back and get it clean. By then it was already afternoon. I queued up for Exasperator [10c], the classic climb at Squamish. By then it was really hot and the sun was beating down on the back rock and the climb. I was told that I had to do the climb in one long p[itch but I wasn’t sure if I could in the heat. So, I ended up just doing the first pitch clean. And then setting up a TR for both Susan and steve. Next time. Next Time. Hopefully tomorrow will be a better day. :D

The Squamish Adventure ...Part Une

howe sound sm.jpg
Originally uploaded by vypeng

I think it all started with the Trip-That-Must-Be-Taken and the mentioning of the Climbs-That-Must-Be-Done in a magical place called Squamish-The-Outdoor-Capkital of Canada. No, there aren’t any wizards or witches in this story…..just two girls on a Quest for great climbing.

We arrived in Vancouver on the 7th of august, bright eyed and almost left behind (that’s a story for another time). We picked up yaris and proceeded to try to get to squamish. Unfortunately we really didn’t have a “you are here” sign with us so that really meant it took us three hours to get to squamish. Using our feminine wiles, we got a killer campsite (complete with wi-fi), pitched a tent, and proceed to the grocery store. Not having eaten anything all day, we stood in front of the chocolate aisle salivating, until the excellent idea of heading to the pub was conjured up. After a pint of Howe Sound Brewery’s Award Winning Garabaldi Honey Pale Ale (I heard that description on the mountain station 107.1 fm) and platter of fish and chips, we were ready to greet the evening with sleep.

The next morning, we awoke to overcast day and the wonderment of climbing. What shall we do today? Something to warm up on…..we headed to Bog Wall at Murrin Park and did the first climbs that we saw. Did a 5.9 and a 5.8. I have no idea what they are called. Then we headed to Shannon falls and did khalaine crack (apparently on our tick list) [5.7], which is a classic 5 start route of the area. We also got on some not-so-classic 5.8 called Cardhu Crack. Good start to the trip. I figured we could handle this thing called rock climbing. Upon returning to our home, we found steve wandering the campgrounds, having just arrived that morning and completed a bouldering session. Yay! We have just enfolded another into our midst. Tomorrow is another day!

endurance time!

CIMG0238.jpg
Originally uploaded by vypeng

i'm finally back into somewhat of endurance shape for climbing....just in the nick of time as well.....sheesh....all it took was getting on sporty routes. i'm glad, cuz i'm headed to Squamish (in BC, Canada) tomorrow and it would suck if i struggled.

this all happened over the weekend down in santa fe, new mexico......hat story is for another day. :D

Maui 07.20.2007

backyard-Panorama1.jpg
Originally uploaded by vypeng

From the Backyard of Aunt Mona's house. it must be nice to live on paradise. nice and not stressful. well for the most part. oh well. We (as in my dad, mom, and I) flew into Maui to visit my grandmother. it was hard to see her in declining health while paradise was existing around us. really sad. at some point i believe the paradise she's going to is infinitely better than where we were. what was hard to see was how frail she was.

i was glad to see her and she to see me.

Castle Peak Area

So, i didn't climb this weekend. ed's busted finger is really putting a drag on my climbing. i think i'm going to have to do some climbing without him. :D anyway, we went on a hike in the Castle Peak area. imagine that, we live only 30 mins away from the sierra beauty. :D pretty cool.

http://penguins.smugmug.com/gallery/3084531

there is always a first time 06.23.2007

there is always a first time.  well this was a first for kaichi.  this weekend she bought a bike, bouldered for the first time, and climbed outside (ok for the second time).  anyway, kaichi came up on thursday night.  her long weekend was hopefully relaxing.  we went bike shopping and errand running on friday.  saturday we went up to donner summit.  we drove to the saddles and ran into people from the city.  that i sort of knew.  kaichi then bouldered for the first time.  we then goofed off around the area.  we then went to school rock to do a couple of trs for kaichi.  she did really well!  pretty cool.  then we went back to the last bike shop we went to yesterday and kaichi bought a bike.  on sunday, we went to tahoe city and did a 14 mi ride.  it was fun and flat.  well, it was good for kaichi to figure out her bike.  anyway, all in all it was a good weekend.  

:D

http://penguins.smugmug.com/gallery/3056867#166504696

like a new pod!

awesome.  i just finished fixing my totally dead (actually just the harddrive) ipod mini.  now i have a "new" one.  yay!!!  

here in the country

so.. now begins my 2.5 weeks of country/mountain living.  nice to be in an area where the neighbors look out for each other.  or better yet, where the neighbors know eac other's names.

yesterday, i went on a bike ride with kaichi and dave (cj).  i got my ass kicked.  didn't know what the hell i was doing.  got really tired on the initial part of the climb and then got worked for the rest of the ride.  only 15 miles and it kicked my ass.  man i got to get in shape.  i'm going to try to go three times a week....in the mornings before it gets too hot.  we'll see how that goes.  i'm going to try to boulder in the afternoons on tuesdays and thursdays.  then during the hottest times of the day.....work on the computer.  man, i want to make a small writing desk for down stairs. oh well.  the dining table will have to do for now.

anyway, we'll see how my time up here goes. 

:D

new thing i learned whilst playing with the functions of the blog.  i can backdate entries.  so that means i can upload some of my super old stuff!  coolio.  well, i think i have to finish writing my tr for jtree of last thanksgiving.  :D  all this to prepare for writing about Squamish.

Comparisons

really?  is this better than the yahoo360?  maybe.  i don't know.  either case, i'm not very good about putting my thoughts down on "paper" (literally and figuratively).  so i'll give this thing a try.  we'll see, eh?  i'm already pretty far ahead in my yaho0360 musings.  well, i still have to catch up.  i'll do a taste test and see what i like.  

so..let's get started........

i'm almost moved.  i think the finality of my move out of the bay area will sink in in july....after i've trained my successor and a party has been thrown.  i'll be sad.  actually, i'll be really sad.  i know i'll miss all my friends here.  every one of them.  i'll make sure they are on im so i can bug the crap out of them.  but then again, i'll hopefully see them in the mountains.  right now, just focus on getting all my crap together and ready for moving my work stuff.  

just trying this out.....

interesting blogspace.....trying to see if this works....  :D

gals on the tip 5.5.2007

it was an all girls party on the lost arrow spire tip. we've talked a long time about actually going and doing the climb. finally we got everybody together and ready. friday evening was the departure time. we left lynsey's house and was on our way to the all gals adventure. needless to say, we did over sleep a little bit and started late the next morning. we started hiking the brutal 3.5 mile trail to the top of the upper yosemite falls a little after 7am and got to the overlook (about another mile) at around 11am. the ground was covered in snow, left over from the previous day's storm. we started rapping the notch at around 11:30am. we didn't start climbing until noonish. the day went chilly and pleasant. one good thing about aid climbing is that you don't really exert yourself all too much when you are waiting for the leader to finish the pitch.

we spent a long time on route and on the tyrolean. given that we had one complete noob (susan. :D) and one gimp (me), i though we did pretty well. we didn't get to the floor until about 11:30pm. we did get two rescues from the boys (alex, matt, dan, and chris). 

all in all, it was a rad day. :D next time, i'm going free climbing. :D

Super Slide 04.27.2007

first time out on the rock for the actual climibing season. susan, lynsey, and i were supposed to climb the lost arrow spire tip this weekend, but susan had to dash off at the last minute for family business. so lynsey and i decided that we would go free climbing instead. all (this included dan and robmo) piled into robmo's wonderful eurovan and headed for the valley friday night. with a not so early next morning, the boys set off on Snake Hike and the gals went to Super Slide. it was a fun top three pitches. at the end of the day, we had two sunburned backs, fun free climbing, and one stuck rope. suck. had to come back the next day for the rope, which took three of us to pull from the branch in which it was wrapped around. oh well. it was a good weekend overall.

Tallac 04.21.2007

Well, i think the end for the snow season is almost upon us. that and the fact i just sprained my ankle badly. sigh. not much of a season. oh well, hope the climbing season is better. we (ed, kaichi, and i) went up to tallac in search of nice snow (or maybe just snow). we found some....after bushwacking a whole bunch. it was a tiring day. fun and tiring. :D

Photo time

here's some photos that I've been taking......for sh*ts and giggles.

When my Brother came to Tahoe to visit
http://penguins.smugmug.com/gallery/2498750#131187908

Being bored in Verdi
http://penguins.smugmug.com/gallery/2530822#132984326

Pyramid Lake
http://penguins.smugmug.com/gallery/2626125#138609477

SF Weekend
http://penguins.smugmug.com/gallery/2728471#144799782


Little Truckee River
http://penguins.smugmug.com/gallery/2728562#144804797